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INSTRUCTION BOOK 

..FOR USING.. 



DRESS CUTTING MACHINE 

WITH DART ATTACHMENT 

Fop Catting French Bias Basque, Enlarging DaPts, ete. 




A. Perfect Fit Without Change of Seam. 



UNRIVALLED IN PERFECT FITTING, EASE OF HANDLING. QUICK ADJUSTMENT, 
GREAT SIMPLICITY AND GENERAL CONVENIENCE. 



AGENT© WANTED 






EE F=t Y W H EE F={ EE 



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1 



MR. & MRS. F. E. BUDDINGTON, 



Entered According to Act of Congress, February 10, 180(S, by F. E. Buddington, in the Office of the Librarian of 

Congress at Washington, D. C. 



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CA.UTION. 

The undersigned is patentee, proprietor and sole manufacturer of the Bnddington 
Improved Dress Cutting Machine, Patented June 18th, 1S95, also the Bnddington Dress 
Cutting Machine, Patented Feb. 13th, 1883, copyrighted Dec. 28, 1880 and April 28, 1884. 
Also Patentee of the Bnddington Sleeve Cutting Machine, Patented Nov. 18, 1890. Any 
person manufacturing, imitating or infringing on the said Dress or Sleeve Cutting Ma- 
chines in any way, will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law. 

F. E. BUDDING TON. 



RETAIL PRICE-LIST. 

Buddington Improved Dress Cutting- Machine, with Book, $ S.00 

Buddington Improved Dress Cutting- Machine, with Book, and plain verbal Instructions 

on Setting- Machine and Drafting- ordinary Basque 7.00 

Budding-ton Dress Cutting- Machine, with Book and full course of verbal instructions 10.00 

Buddington Sleeve Cutting- Machine 2.00 

Steel Tracing- Wheel, (best) 50 

Tracing- Wheel, (g-ood) 15 

Measure Book 50 

Tape Line, (linen) 10 

Tape L/ine, (sewed sateen, best) .25 

One Instruction Book and Rart Rule goes with each Machine. Extra ones are 50c. each. 

For Wholesale Price Eist of Machine and all the goods we handle send 2 cent stamp to our 
Chicago office. Agents wanted everywhere, and now is the time to secure territory. On 
receipt of price, any of the above articles will be sent post-paid (except Machines, which are 
sent by express). In ordering Machines, state what Express Co. you wish them shipped by. 

HOW TO SEND MONEY. 

It is best to send the ful,i, amount with your order, as goods are sent C. O D., unless fully 
paid for, which makes them cost from 25c. to 50c. more. Send money by Post-Office Money 
Order, Express, Registered Eetter or Draft On Chicago or New York. Money Sent as above 
at our risk. Address 

F. E. BUDDINGTON, 2327 Indiana Ave., Chicago. 



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IJXTROD UCTOR Y. 



Several years ago we invented and put on the market the Buddington Dress Cutting 
Machine. It was a radical departure from all methods in use at that time. It had many 
things to contend with, as all new ideas and inventions have. It had the prejudice of 
the people to overcome, together with the attacks of the promoters of other systems. But 
it conquered them all, true merit was in it, and when the ladies discovered this fact they 
adopted it, and discarded the tiresome and complicated methods they had been using. 
Therefore, we claim and can easily prove, that our machine was the first practical adjust- 
able system ever put on the market. As soon as we proved that it could be done, many 
imitators sprung up with contrivances of various kinds. Many of these affairs were of so 
crude a nature, they have been changed many times since, and judging from reports of 
those who have used them, they are no better now than they were before. Thisisnot sur- 
prising, for we control the only principle on which an adjustable machine can be made to 
work successfully. (We are so sure of this, that we have followed the same general plan 
in our new machine.) But the ladies were not deceived by these affairs, they knew the 
genuine article from the counterfeit and continued to rush in the orders, soon rolling up 
the total of machines in use to the colossal number of One Hundred Thousand. 

Thanking our numerous friends and patrons who have so loyally stood by us and 
who have encouraged us by their kind words of praise spoken, not only to us, but to their 
friends, and which have in no small way contributed to the wonderful success of our ma- 
chine, we now submit for your inspection, our latest: "The Buddington Improved Dress 
Cutting Machine." We do not intend this improved machine shall supplant the other, we 
shall make and sell the other machine as long as there is a person that wants it. But 
this is an age of rush and hurry. Dress Makers want a machine they can lay on a bolt of 
cloth, turn a crank and have the dresses come out finished in assorted sizes; we have not 
quite accomplished this, but think we have come as near it as it is possible to get. We 
expect after you get accustomed to it, you will draft the dress in less time than you take in 
getting the measures. We have spared no labor or expense in making this machine, we 
have given years of time in experimenting and perfecting it and are confident, with 
its wonderful simplicity, accuracy, dart attachment, ease of adjustment and other great 
advantages, it will soon be in universal use all over the land. To accomplish this, we must 
have your help. The machine may be perfect and worth more to those who buy than we 
can estimate, but how are they to know iiiis unless you tell them. We want your good will, 
we want your kind words, we want your co-operation, we want you to sell the machine if 
you will; if you cannot, you may know of some one who can. Tell them about it, tell us 
about it and we will send them our price list and all other information we may have. 

And in conlusion will say, we want to know what you think of the machine after 
using it long enough to become thoroughly accustomed to it. Write us telling what you 
think of it — we may print the replies in our circulars and books if agreeable to you. 

Sincerely yours, 

MR. & MRS. F. E. BUDDINGTON. 



2 



Instructions for Using 




Fig. 2. 




Yoa Take the Measure 



WE DO THE REST. 



Be careful in taking the measures. Remember the machine will reproduce just what 
you call the measure, whether it is right or wrong. If you doubt this set slide 4 to 
any back measure and try the tape. Again set back and front of machine to any bust 
measure, lay front of machine on table, place back of machine with back bar against the 
under arm bar, with bust bars of front and back in line, now measure with tape along the 
bust bars from outside of front to outside of back and you find just one-half inch more 
than one-half the bust measure. This one-half inch comes out at top of under arm wire, 
all the other measures are the same. There is no guess work about the machine. Keep 
taking measures until you become an expert. Remember that what is worth doing at all, is 
worth doing well. 

THE ARM'S EYE MEASURE. 

The measure you are sure to get wrong, unless you are very careful, is the arms eye, 
on account of the large sleeves now worn. This measure is more difficult to get than form- 
erly. (It would be better to remove large sleeves when taking this measure.) There is 
no danger of getting it too small, the only danger is in getting it too large. It must not 
under any circumstances be larger than neck measure; if it is, yon may be sure it is wrong. 
This measure not only regulates slide 5 at arm hole, but a slide of still more importance 
and that is the bust bar at slide 4, and the bust bar regulates the waist bar at under arm. 
Move slide 4 uj) and down and you will see it change the whole machine at these points. 
The arm's eye is never larger than neck and is usually smaller. Re careful about the 
front, under arm and back measures. . Always use a cord or belt around waist and push 
it down as far as you wish waist of dress to come and measure to lower edge. 



The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



TAKING THE MEASURE. 



Buckle a belt tightly around the waist as low down as you wish the waist of dress to come. 

1. — Neck Measure is taken around neck, inside collar tight. (See measure 1 in 
Fig. 1 and 2.) 

2 — Arm's Eye is taken around arm, about one inch below point of shoulder bone 
very tight. (See 2 in Fig. 1 and 2.) N. B. — This is a very important measure and if 
taken too loose will not fit, when taken correct is never larger than neck measure and 
usually smaller. (See further instructions Page 2.) 

3. — Bust Measure is taken smoothly around fullest part of bust and raised slightly 
in back. (See 3 in Fig. 1 and 2.) N: B. — Care should be taken that tape line is not al- 
lowed to slip down and thus bust measure taken too tight. 

4. — Waist Measure is taken around lower part of waist tight. (See 4 in Fig. 1 and 2.) 

5. — Front Measure is taken from prominent bone in back of neck to waist line in 
centre of front. (See 5 and 6 in Fig. 1 and 2.) 

6. — Height of Darts. While taking front measure, and before moving tape, 
notice where tape strikes fullest part of bust. (See 6 in Fig. 1.) 

7. — Back Measure is taken from prominent bone in back of neck to waist line in 
centre of back. (See 7 in Fig. 2.) 

8. — Width ©I? Back is taken from exactly centre of one arm's eye, across back to 
centre of other. (See 8 in Fig. 2.) 

9. — Under Arm Measure is taken from high up under arm (while arm rests 
naturally by side) to waist line at side. (See 9 in Fig. 1 shows measure a little too far 
front, it should be directly under the arm.) N. B. — It is a good plan to have a loop 
sewed in end of tape, and with a lead pencil thrust through, hold the pencil crosswise 
under the arm and push it up as far as you can. 

10. — Shoulder Measure is taken from side neck where neck joins body, to one- 
fourth inch below point of shoulder bone. (See 10 in Fig. 1 and 2. 

11. — Hip Measure is taken four inches below, waist, loose. (See 11 in Fig. 1 and 2.) 

12. — Arm's Eye For Sleeve is taken around arm half way between shoulder and 
elbow easy. 

13. — Shoulder to Elbow Measure is taken from point of shoulder to elbow 
— hand resting on front waist. 

14 — Length of Sleeve is taken from shoulder bone, to one and one-balf inches 
above joint at wrist, around outside point of elbow — hand resting on waist. 

15. — Elbow Measure is taken around elbow with arm bent; easy measure; not tight. 

16. — Wrist Measure is taken around wrist; tight as you can draw tape. 

17. — Skirt Measure. Take skirt measure from waist line at front and back to floor. 



Instructions for Using 



BACK BARS. 

For convenience of reference, we call the different parts of machine, Bars. 

Back Bar — has the back measures with slides 1 and 4. 

Shoulder Bar — has the shoulder measures. 

Bust Bar — the bust measures. 

Waist Bar — the waist measures and slide 6. 

Side Bar — is the Bar from waist to arm's eye, the rivets at end of bust and waist slide 
are in this Bar. . 

Side Body Wire — is the curved wire from arm's eye bar to waist, and continuing below 
waist, is the front wire. 

Back Wire — isthe short wire below waist and is marked "Back,"in diagram on dart rule. 

Arm's Eye Bar — is the Bar that connects the side Bar with shoulder Bar and carries 
slide 7. 

Back Skirt Plate — is the plate that extends outside of back Bar and is attached to slide 4. 

Neck Plate — connects the top of back and shoulder Bars. 

Side Body Plate — is attached to end of waist slide and projects outside of side Bar. 

FRONT BARS. 

Front Bar — is the long bar with its several measures and slides 3, 4, 6 and 7. 

Neck Bar — has the neck measures. 

Shoulder Bar— the shoulder measures. 

Bust Bar — the bust measures. 

Dart Bar — has double rows of measures and holds the top of darts. (Slide 10 and 11.) 

Waist Bar — holds the lower dart slides and lower end of under arm wire with accom- 
panying bust measures. 

Under Arm Bar — has the under arm measures. 

Under Arm Wire Bar — holds top of under arm wire (Slide 13) with accompanying 
bust measures. 

Under Arm Wire — is the two wires from waist to bust Bar. 

Under Arm Plate — extends below waist Bar, from lower end of under arm wire. 

Hip Plate — is attached to lower end of under arm Bar. 

Arm's Eye Plate — is attached to upper end of under arm Bar. 

Arm's Eye Wire — is the wire from shoulder to bust Bar. 

Neck Wire — is the wire from neck to front Bar. 

Front Wire of First Dart — is the 1st dart wire. 

Back Wire of First Dart — is the 2nd dart wire. 

Front Wire of Second Dart — is the 3rd dart wire. 

Back Wire of Second Dart — is the 4th dart wire. 

THE SLIDES. 

Every slide (except front bust) has a spring of some kind to hold it in place. These 
slides move very easily, and respond to the touch instantly, if they are taken hold of in 
proper place. In setting slides with a rivet in the end, like shoulder, bust and waist of 
back, take hold of the rivet, (don't put fingers on the measure strip as it is not necessary, 
and soon soils them.) In setting slides that run in the long bars, front and back, take 
hold of the bar directly over, or as near the slide you wish to move as possible. In setting 
front bust slide, take hold of under arm bar about two inches below where it is attached 
to bust bar. 



The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



Fig. 3. 




SETTING THE BACK. 

See Back Diagram on Dart Rule. 

1. — Move Slide 1 down to star (this is to allow shoulder to be set,) 
after which, move up to lower end of Arm's Eye Bar. 

2.— Set Slide 2 (Shoulder Bar) to Shoulder Measure. 

3.— Set Slide 3 (Bust Bar) to Bust Measure. 

4-. — Set upper edge of Slide 4 (Back Bar) to Back Measure. 

5.— Set Slide 5 (Waist Bar) to Waist Measure. When Waist Meas- 
ure is less than 23, set at 23. 

<>.— With hand on rivet at top of Slide 6, (Side Body Wire) set Slide 
to divide Back and Side Body as you choose. The marks on Waist and 
Arm's Eye Bar are medium. (See Note 1, under head of "Special 
Rules.") 

7. — Set Slide 7 so the rivet will come even with the mark on Arm's 
Eye Bar. (See Note 1, under head of "Special Rules.") 



DRAFTING THE CENTRE BACK. 

1. — With Dart Rule before you for reference, follow the Arrows in 
Back Diagram. 
2. — Place Back Bar of Machine straight with edge of paper, top of 
Bar \y 2 inches from edge and Back Bar, at Waist, 2 inches from edge, with Waist Bar the 
distance from bottom of paper you wish length of basque. 

3. — Hold Machine by placing fing-ers of left hand on Bust Bar, and commence at the top of 
machine and mark down outside of Back Bar, to end of Skirt Plate below waist. Commence 
at top and mark outside of Neck Plate, Shoulder Bar, Arm's Eye Bar, till pencil strikes wire 
loop, then down the right side of Side Body Wire to waist, then on the inside of the back wire 
below waist, (See arrows) then below Waist Bar the whole length of Bar. 



DRAFTING THE SIDE BODY. 

Follow the Stars. 

1.— Turn Machine, neck toward you and with Back Bar for a rule, extend waist line of 
Centre Back out six or eight inches from you. 

2. — Place Machine with Waist Bar straight on waist line, with Side Body Wire two inches 
from the back line of Centre Back Drafting. Commence below the wire loop at Arm's Eye 
and mark balance of Arm's Eye, down Side Bar to end of Side Body plate below waist; then 
commence at top of Side Body Wire and mark down on the right side of wire (Same side as 
before,) to the Waist Bar; then on the Inside of the Front wire below Waist Bar. (See Stars.) 
Note. — The wire loop outside of Arm's Eye Bar at slide 7, is to give the width of a small 
dart at that point. After drafting Side Body, move machine from you, bringing the Arm's 
Eye line inside Arm's Eye Bar, and with wire curve draw line from the upper end of Arm's 
Eye line, so it will strike regular line two inches down. Line 7 shows regular line; dotted 
line shows new line making the dart. 



BACK AND FRONT OF MACHINE COMPLETE. 

Each part of Machine, both back and front are complete in themselves, and one part does not 
in any way depend on the other, either for adjustment or drafting; this leaves the operator free to 
use either back or front first in drafting. But as the back is more simple and easier to learn, 
this part comes first in instructions, and we advise all to learn to draft with the back until 
they are perfectly familiar with its working's, after which commence on the front. But after 
you have learned to use the Machine perfectly, both back and front, it is best to draft the front 
first, as in cutting, the largest part should be cut first, which, of course, is the front. 



The Slides are Numbered. Measure Scales are Named. 

On the Machine are found different scales of measures; these measure scales have printed 
on them the words bust, waist, etc., thus showing which measures are to be used in setting 
the slide. In addition to naming the measure scales, we have numbered each slide. These 
numbers are not on machine, but are shown in the diagram on back of Dart Rule. 
We would advise you to learn to set the machine by the numbers, as then you learn to set them 
in rotation and are not so liable to overlook some of them, as you are when having no order 
or system about it. 



o 



Instructions for Using 



SETTING THE FRONT. 

See Front Diagram on Dart Rule. 
1. — Set Slide 1 (Shoulder Bar) to shoulder measure. 
2.— Set Side 2 (Neck Bar to Neck measure. 
3. — Set upper edge of Slide 3 (Neck Wire) to neck measure. 
4. — Set upper edg-e of Slide 4 (In Front Bar) to Arm's Eye 
measure. 

5. — Set Slide 5 (Arm's Eye Wire) to Arm's Eye measure. 
The loop around rivet to cover measure. 

6. — Set upper end of Slide (> (In Front Bar) to height of dart 
measure. (See Note 2. Under head of special rules.) 

7. — Set upper edge of Slide 7 (In Front Bar) to front 
measure. 

H. — Set Slide 8 (Under Arm Bar) to under arm measure. 
i>. -With Dart Rule set Slide I) (Back Wire of Second Dart) 
to Waist and Bust measure. This is done with "' Dart Table," 
by finding- Waist measure in Waist Scale or Column, and fol- 
lowing- this Waist measure to the rig-ht, between the lines to 
Bust measure, then down Bust column to lower end of rule, the 
point at lower end of column, regulates Slide V), giving- the full 
amount to be taken up in both Front Darts; the dotted lines 
in dart table, from Waist 24 and Bust 36, and from 36 down 
explains how to get the size of Darts. Hold Dart Rule in left 
hand, placing the Star found at lower end of Waist Column, on 
First wire of Front dart and with right hand on Back wire of 
Second da.rt, set Slide t)tothe point atlowerendof Bust Column. 
Setting this onetvire(Slide&)gives the full amount for both darts- 
lO-ll. — Before moving rule, note small figure at bottom 
of Bust Column, (directly under the wire, Slide $•)) and set 
Slides lO and 11, (Top of Darts) to the same number stamped on Dart Bar of Machine. 
Thus, if small figure be ft, set top of darts to 3 in Dart Bar. 

12.— Set Slide 12 so as make the darts equal in size, or second dart larger, as desired, as 
you have the correct amount to be taken up in both darts. When you set Slide t>, it makes no 
particular difference where Slide 12 is placed, but think two dart.s of equal size, look and fit 
better. - 

13.— Set Slide 13 (Top of Under Arm Wire) to Bust Measure, Loop or Rivet to be even with 
measure. If Bust Measure is not found on Bar, set to the measure next larger. (See Note 2, 
under head of special rules.) 

14.— Set Slide 14 (Lower end of Under Arm Wire) to Bust Measure; place it so you see num- 
ber at right side, as in diagram. If Bast measure is not f oundonBarsettomeasure next larger. 
15. — Set Slide 15 (Bust Bar) to Bust Measure; this is done by taking hold of Under Arm 
Bar close to where it is attached to Bust Bar and moving it from you. We have left this Slide 
for the last as it is more apt to slip from measure. 




DRAFTING THE FRONT. 

Follow the Arrows in Front Diagram on Dart Rule. 

1. — Place Front Bar of Machine, 1?+ inches from edge of cloth, or paper, and Waist Bar 
the distance from bottom you wish length of basque. 

2. --Place Dart Rule before you for reference and follow the arrows in Front Diagram. 

3. -Be s-ure all Slides are set, especially note the Bust Slide, and see it is at the measure. 

4. — Hold Machine with fingers of left hand, pressing down on the Bust Bar. 

5. — Commmence at top of Neck Wire, below Slide 2 and mark down outside of Neck Wire, 
continuing line to end of wire. Commence below Neck Wire and extend line down outside 
Front Bar to lower end of Bar. 

d. — Commence at top of Neck Bar, above Slide 2 and mark along Neck Bar to Shoulder, 
down Shoulder Bar, around outside Arm's Eye Wire to Bust Bar, and extend line on Bust 
Bar out to Arm's Eye Plate. 

7.— Commence below Bust Bar (^Slide 13) and mark down the front, or left side of Under 
Arm Wire to Waist Bar, and below Waist Bar along front edge of Under Arm Plate. 

8.— Mark on lower side of Waist Bar from Under Arm Plate to Front Bar. Note — When 
marking Waist line inside of Dart Wires, define the dart.s by either marking; down inside each 



The Budiungton Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



wire % inch, or turn pencil on its point making- 
small dots. 

i). — With pencil inside of Dart Wire at top, 
mark down each wire to Waist Bar of both Darts. 
10. — Mark along- upper side of Bust Bar from 
Front Bar to Arm's Eye Wire. 

11. — Move Machine toward you, keeping- Bust 
Bar on, and straig-ht with Bust Line, bringing- top 
of second dart wires on front line and mark dot A 
on front line, between wires at the top of second 
dart. 

12. — Move Machine towards you, placing- end 
of Dart Bar on dot A and make dot B at No. 5 
stamped on Dart Bar. Note — The correct position 
of dot A would be on Front Line, the same dis- 
tance below Bust Line, that top of second Dart in 
drafting- is below Bust Line, and dot B would be 
% inch straight out from dot A. 

] 3. — With Front Bar for a rule, draw lines from 
junction of Neck and Front lines to dot B, and 
from dot B to junction of Waist and Front lines. 
14. — Make dot C and I) on Waist Line in cen- 
tre of each dart. 

IS. — Place Front Bar of Machine on dot C with 

Neck Wire even with top of dart, (see dotted line J 

Fig-. 5) and draw line from top of Dart straight down 

across dot C to lower end of Front Bar. (If goods or 

paper is too short, extend line on table to lower end 

of Bar.) 

E ,f ^~ V lfi. — Without moving Machine, hold pencil 

straight up at bottom of Front Bar as a pivot, and move top of Machine toward you and draw 

line from junction of Waist and Dart Line, to bottom of Basque. (See dotted lines J Fig. 5.) 

17.— Hold pencil as before and move -top of Machine from you and draw line from other 

side of dart to bottom of goods. (See dotted line K..) 

18.— Draw line from top of Second Dart across dot D. Hold pencil and finish Second Dart 
same as the first. Fig. 5 shows how to hold pencil, and dotted lines I, J and K, shows position 
of Front Bar when getting the lines for darts. By getting a point 8 or 10 inches below waist, 
and directly under center of darts, gives the slope desired. If darts are large and you wish 
less slope, put pencil 12 inches below waist. The higher you put pencil, the less goods you 
take up in darts below waist; the lower you put pencil, the more goods you take up in darts. 
If more fuleness is desired in "front, make, dot G, six inches below waist and one-fourth 
inch outside of Front Line, and draw line from junction of Waist and Front Line to dot G. 
then draw line down parallel with Front Line. (See Fig-. 4.) 




USE THESE MEASURES FOR PRACTICE. 



MEASURE FOR WAIST. 

Neck 12 

Arm's Eye 12 

Bust 36 

Waist 24 

Front 20 



Height of Dart 

Back 

Width of Back 

Under Arm 

Shoulder 

Hip 



.13 
16 
.12 
8 
. 6 
40 



MEASURE FOR SLEEVE. 




Child's Measure. 




Arm's Eye 

Shoulder to Elbow- 

Around Elbow 

Length of Sleeve 


13 

.14 

12 

22 


Neck 

Arm's Eye 

Bust 

Waist 

Back . 


. 9 

8 

.24 

.23 

12 


Around Wrist 


6 


Under Arm 


.. sy 2 


LADIES' SKIRT. 




Shoulder 

Hips 


■ 3>/ 2 
.30 


Waist 


.24 


CHILD'S SLEEVE. 




Length of Front 

Length of Back 


.40 
40 


Arm's Eve 
Shoulder to Elbow . 
Shoulder to Wrist 


... 8 

9 

......14 






Around Wrist 


5 



Instructions for Using 



Fig. «. 



13 



DRAFTING THE UNDER ARM. 

Follow the Stars in Front Diagran on Dart Rule. 

1. — After drafting- front, move Machine to any part of g-oods you wish 
to cut under-arm piece from and place Waist Bar on crosswise thread of 
g-oods. Be careful to see this is done. 

2.— Commence at Arm's Eye Wire, an inch or two above Bust Bar (See 
Stars, Front Diagram on Dart Rule) and mark line down Arm's Eye Wire, 
along Bust Bar up aron nd Arm's Eye Plate, down Under Arm Bar, to bottom 
of Hip Plate; then along- lower side of Waist Bar to Under Arm Plate, down 
right side of Under Arm Plate, then up right side of Under Arm Wire. 

4. — Move Machine from you, using Front Bar as a rule and finish un- 
der arm line from Waist Line to Arm's Eye. 

Note. — It is best to always mark along the Arm's Eye Wire, for when 
the Under Arm Wire is to the left of the rivet in Arm's Eye Wire, you 
need the curved line L, Fig. 6, on Under Arm piece, to fit Front Arm's 
Eye. When underarm line is run up to Arm's Eye, you simply discard 
it, if not needed. 

Curved Skirt lines below waist in back, under arm, and front drafting- 
. i are extended any length, by placing Hip curve of Dart Rule on lines, A 
corner at Waist line, and drawing line down Hip Curve desired length. Turn rule over, for 
Front line of under arm piece. 

Hip Measure. — To apply the Hip measure, first measure the drafting of Centre Back and 
Side Body, four inches below Waist. (See dotted lines) Second, measure the drafting- of front, 
four inches below Waist, leaving out the darts. Then measure the Under Arm drafting and 
make dot H on skirt line, four inches below waist, at one-half of the hip measure. Dot H may 
come outside or inside of line. 

Arm's Eye. — When marking around Arm's Eye Plate, line is made higher than is needed 
in most cases. This can be cut off after lining is basted together, but if you wish to get it 
exact in drafting, take back of Mac/line after it is set to measure and lay Side Bar on back 
line of Under Arm drafting-, with lower side of Waist Bar on waist line and make dot M on 
line 8, at upper end of Side Bar, then draw line from dot M to Arm's Eye line curving it as 
per dotted line. 




TRACING AND CUTTTING OUT FRONT. 

Commence at Waist line and trace waist line from 7 to 14, (Fig. 4) then up Under Arm line, 
Arm'sEye and Shoulder. Then commence at Waist and trace Front line from 7 to dot B; f rom 
dot B to Neck, around neck to shoulder. Commence at Waist and trace lines of each dart from 
Waist to Top; then commence at Waist and trace dart lines down, then skirt lines from Waist 
down. In cutting out allow one-half inch seam everywhere except at Neck and Arm's Eye, 
which are cut on tracing. 



TRACING UNDER ARM. 

Trace Waist line from 14 to 8; (See Fig. 6.) then up line 8. Commence at 14 and trace 
up to5; then Arm's Eye. Trace skirt lines from waist down. /// cutting out under arm piece 
allow one-half inch seam everywhere except at Arm's Eye; Arm'sEye is cut on tracing-. 



TRACING CENTRE BACK. 

Trace waist line from 4 tof>(Fig. li) up curved line from (> to 7 around Arm'sEye, Shoulder 
and Neck. Commence at waist and trace back line to neck, then from waist, trace down both 
skirt lines. In cutting' out, allow one-half inch seam everywhere except at neck and Arm's 
Eye, which is cut on tracing. 



TRACING SIDE BODY. 

Trace waist line from O to 5 (See Fig. 3) up side line to Arm'sEye, around Arm's Eye tolower 
or dotted line, then down dotted line to waist, then from waist trace down both skirt lines. /;/ 
cutting out allow one-half inch seam everywhere except at Arm's Eye, which is cut on tracing. 



Have You our New Sleeve Cutting Machine? It Saves Time and Labor. 



The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



TO CUT A BIAS BASQUE. 




1. — Set Machine, Darts and all, exactly as 
for ordinary basque. 

2. — If Bust Measure is less than 36, set top 
and bottom of Under Arm Wire at 36, if Bust 
Measure is larger than ',Hi, set to measure as 
usual. 

3. — Draft out the Under Arm. 
4.— Move Slide 1 2 so the first dart will 
measure from \% to \% inches inside of wires. 
5. — Set top of first dart at 3 and top of 
second dart half way between 2 and 3. 

6. — Bring- down Dart Attachment and catch 
it to Rivet under Back Dart Wire at Slide O. 

7. — With finger of right hand on Under Arm 
Slide and thumb on Slide 14, move bottom of 
Under Arm wire to the right 1% inches. 
(See diagram on back cover.) NOTE. — The 
measures and letters on Waist Bar are % 
inch apart; so you would move Slide 14 by 6 
measures or letters, thus on a 3(5 bust it would 
move over to the letter S. Another way to get 
the distance is to put D corner of Dart Rule at 
edge of Slide and see what figure or letter 
comes 11-2 inch from Slide, and move Slide to 
the same. Of course Slide i) moves with Slide 
14, as it is fastened to it by attachment. Be careful that machine does not close up while 
moving Slide 14; to make sure of this it is best to hold finger of left hand on regular Bust 
Slide at 15. 

8. — Place machine on paper or cloth and mark out the same as for ordinary basque, omit- 
ting the line along Under Arm wire and the Back wire of second dart. 

O. — Without moving machine make dot Jl at upper side of Waist Bar next to Under Arm Wire. 

lO.— Place pencil perpendicular inside of the wires at top of second dart. (At 10) and turn 

machine on pencil as a pivot, swing the back edge of machine up till dot N comes on lower 

side of Waist Bar. In turning machine keep the top of Dart Wire pressed against the pencil, 

as machine must not slip up at this point. 

11. — Now finish lines by marking down inside Back Wire of Second Dart, continuing below 

waist to end of wire; then mark down the left side of Under Arm Wire, continuing line along 

the plate below waist, also mark a new waist line from. first line of second dart to Under Arm 

Plate and a line along Arm's Eye Wire and Bust Bar from Slide 5 about two inches each way. 

12. — Make dot A and B same as usual. 

13. — Make dot C as usual. 

14. — Make dot 1) % inch from first line of Second Dart. 
15. — Draw lines across dot C and D and finish Dart lines as usual. 

16.— Make dot O Y% inch inside line at lower end of Back Dart Wire. (The end of 
Under Arm Plate will give the '/$ inch required. 

17. — Draw straight line from junction of Waist and Dart lines across dot O to bottom of 
basque. 

18. — Draw straight line from top of Second Dart to the junction of Waist and Back Dart 
line. (See dotted lines,) Extend the Skirt lines with curve of Dart Rule as usual. 



TRACING 

Trace all regular lines as usual. Trace Waist line from Front to first line of Second dart, 
then trace upper Waist line across dot N, thus discarding lower Waist line, trace on the straight 
line of Second Dart from 10 to Waist, and from Waist across dot O. The large second dart 
is cut out allowing for seams, all other lines are cut as usual. If a greater bias effect is de- 
sired, move Slide 14 two inches. 



IO 



Instructions for Using 



BASTING BIAS BASQUE. 

In basting- goods on lining- for front of bias basque, first, baste goods to lining smoothly as 
usual, as far back as, and including front edge of second dart, being careful to baste (As else- 
where advised) a thread down front edge of second dart, holding dress g-oods and lining- firmly 
together. Now draw dress goods tightly down on lining-, pinning both together at short spaces, 
so the lining wrinkles beneath the goods, and baste the back edge of dart and all remaining 
edg-es of lining- and g-oods firmly together. This is done to avoid any wrinkles in side and 
makes a smooth elastic fit. In basting all bias basques the back edge of second dart should 
be held tightly, stretching it to front, commencing- at top of dart to baste, always. The top of 
such dart should always be tapered up a trifle beyond the upper point, (See dotted line) in 
sewing together. The Waist Line of back edge of Second Dart will fall slightly below that of 
remainder of basque, but this is not a defect as it serves to lengthen the Side Line of Front 
Waist, and gives a better effect to the form of waist. 



TO PUT SLIDE 9 IN PLACE. 

If bust measure is large, Slide i> may be carried so far to the right, it will come out of the 
bar it belongs in, if this does occur it will make no difference, as the attachment will hold it in 
place. Finish the drafting same as usual. After gettiug the drafting, take machine apart 
and put back the slide as follows: 

1.— Take out Shoulder Slide. 

2. — Take hold of Under Arm Bar and draw out the Bust and Waist Slides entirely. 

3. — If the spring has slipped off Dart Wire, put Dart Wire through the top of rivet as 
before, take hold of spring at notched end and with fingers holding up the rivet under- 
neath put slide in place. If put in correctly, notched end of spring is to the right. If the 
rivet comes out of spring it must be put back with the brass spring curved up at ends when 
in place. 

WHEN DART ATTACHMENT IS TOO SHORT. 

In large bust measure, Dart Attachment may be too short to reach Slide 9, in this case 
make up the deficiency by tieing a string to the end of Attachment, and winding it around 
Slide t). In tieing, draw string tight, but must not move Slides, as the distance from Dart 
Wire to Under Arm Wire must atways be preserved. 



Fig. 8. 



WAIST WITHOUT DARTS. 



1.- Set Front of Machine, Darts and all as for Basque. 
li. — Set the Front Dart so it will measure \% inch inside 
of wires. 

3. — Draft out the Front omitting the Dart Lines. 
4. —Move machine towards you keeping Waist Bar on 
Waist Line, and bring the Front Wire of First Dart on the 
Front Line and make dot C inside the Back Wire of First 
dart. (Thus taking off the first dart at Front.) 

5. — Now move machine back from you keeping Waist Bar 
on Waist Line, and bring the Back wire of Second Dart on 
Under Arm Line and make dot D inside first wire of Second 
Dart, thus taking off Second Dart at Under Arm Line. 

6. — Draw straight line from junction of Under Arm 
and Bust line to dot D, then place Waist Bar of Machine on 
Waist line and with junction of Under Arm Bar and Hip 
Plate at dot E>, draw Skirt line down from dot D. 

7. — Make dot E on Front line, 5 inches below Waist line. 
8. — Draw straight line from Neck to dot B. 
t). — Place A corner of Rule at dot B and draw curved line 
to dot C. 

IO. — Place A corner at dot C and draw curved line to 
dot E. 

11.— Trace from dot B to dot C, from dot C to dot E, Waist 
line from dot C to dot E>, then up new Under Arm line. Trace all other lines as usual. 
Back and Under Ann are drafted as usual. 

Note. — Bone lining thoroughly, both for Seamless and Dartless Waist and stretch outside 
tightly and evenly. If lining is too full in front at dot B, a small plait may be taken there. 




The Bpddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



11 



SEAMLESS WAIST. 




1. — Set front of machine as for or- 
dinary basque. 

2. — Lay on paper and mark around 
machine at Front Bar, Neck Wire, 
Shoulder Bar, Arm's Eye Wire and 
Arm's Eye Plate, Under Arm Bar and 
Waist Bar, omitting- all inside lines. 

3. — Find the size of the two Front 
Darts by measuring- inside the wires 
of each dart and add to this one-half 
inch. Take one-half of this amount 
and make dot D on Waist Line, inside 
of Side Line, and the other half make 
dot C on Waist Line, inside of Front 
Line. 

4. — To illustrate; if waist is 24 and 
bust measure 35 there would be three 
inches for both darts; add to this one- 
half inch, making 7>}4, inches, one-half 
of this would make dot D IX inches 
from Side Line, and dot C 1% inches 
from Front Line. 

5. — Turn back of machine over, placing corner, or junction of Skirt Plate and Side Bar on 
dot D, with upper end of Side Bar resting- on Side line of Front at Arm's Eye, and mark en- 
tirely around outside of machine. 

6. — Finish Waist Line from dot D to Back Line. 
7. — Draw straight line from Neck to dot B. 

8. — Place A corner of rule at dot B and draw curved line from dot B to dot C. 
9.— Fold lining- crosswise, place Back Line on fold; trace Waist Line from dot C to dot 1) 
and from dot D to Back Line, thence around Back Line, Neck, Shoulder, Arm's Eye, Front 
Shoulder and Neck, down line to dot B following- curved line from dot B to dot C. 

lO. — Allow one and one-half inch hem in Front. The only place to allow for seams is at 
Shoulder and bottom of Waist. 



SURPLICE FRONT. 

Surplice Fronts so much worn, especially by matrons and elderly ladies are obtained with 
all the graceful elegance of fit, by first sewing dart seams in lining and then basting dress 
g-oods on lining at Shoulder Seam and Arm's Eye and bring-ing goods tightly down from 
Shoulder, in forward turning pleats slightly crossed at Front Waist Line. A bow, buckle, 
bunch of flowers, or any other ornament tacked at the crossing- gives a graceful and stylish 
effect. This style of front can be used either with a regular, or a bias basque, if with regular 
style of darts, and more g-oods are wanted for fold in front, mark darts larger by using- Dart 
Attachment. 

WAIST WITH SEAMLESS BACK. 

Lay back of machine on fold of goods, with outside edge of Back Bar from Neck to Waist 
exactly even with fold, and mark around Neck, Shoulder, Arm's Eye, Side Bar and Waist, 
omitting the Back and Side Body Seams. Cut out as usual. To cut this back bias, lay 
Back Bar on bias fold of goods. This waist is desirable for Plaids or any goods with 
rough surface, where few seams are desired. 



CAUTION 



In asking for information or ordering any thing that belongs to the Improved machine 
always mention that it is for the Improved, so we will know just what is wanted. We have 
100,000 of our other machines in use, and the only difference in name is this word Improved. 
If not stating definitely that it is for the Improved, we shall take it for granted you refer to 
our first or regular machine. 



12 



Instructions for Using 



TO SET MACHINE TO WIDTH OF BACK MEASURE. 

Fig. 1<>. 

1. — Set front of machine exactly as for ordinary basque. 
2. — Draft out the under arm. 

3. — Set back of machine exactly as for basque. 

4. — Measure across back of machine from centre of Arm's Eye to Back 
Bar, (See Dotted Line Y.) and move Bust Slide so it will measure just one- 
half of Width of Back Measure., from outside edge of Back Bar to the 
Brass Slide that runs in Arm's Eye Bar. 

5. — Now count the measures from where you find the Bust Slide set. 
to regular bust measure and move Slide 13, (Top of Under Arm Wire.) the 
same number of measures. If you have moved Slide in making back nar- 
rower, add to the front the same numbers of measures by moving Slide 
13 to the right. If you have made back wider deduct same number of 
measures at front by moving Slide 13 to the left. 

To illustrate, the measures on Bust Bar in Back of machine and the 
measures on Front of machine at Slide 13 (Top of Under Arm Wire.) are 
the same in distance, each being % inch apart, so you simply add to front 
the number of measures you have deducted from back, therefore, with a 
36 bust and a 12 width of back, we find back of machine when set at 36 
Bust Measure, 6*4 inches. Move Bust Slide in till it measures one-half of 
width of back measure, which is six inches, and we find Bust Slide set at 
33. Now count from 33 to 36, you find you have moved Bust Slide in 3 
measures, add this to the front by moving Slide 13 to the right 3 measures, which would be 
from No. 36 to 2i>, thus adding to the front the same amount you deducted from back. 
6. — After you adjust the back and front, finish the drafting same as usual. 
NOTE. — The width of Back Measure does not need to be used often, as machine when set at 
regular measure is correct in most cases, but if lady has large bust and narrow back it is best 
to change machine as above. Don't forget to draft Under Arm before changing front of machine. 




TO CUT A BACK NARROWER AT WAIST. 

To cut a back narrower at waist than machine gives, when set at regular 
waist measure; if waist measure is 25 or larger, move in Waist Slide and add 
to Front Waist the same amount you deduct from back. To add this to front, 
set front of machine as usual, and draft out the Under Arm, then move Slide 
14 (lower end of Under Arm Wire) to the right the same number of measures 
you have deducted from back. To illustrate: The measures in Waist Bar of Back 
of Machine, and the measures at Slide 1 4, (lower endof Under Arm Wire)are 
the same in distance, both being % inch apart; so if you have moved Waist 
Slide in back from 25 to 24 you have deducted one measure, or 14 inch; now 
add this % inch to Front by moving Slide 14 % inch to the right, which from 
36 would be to 34. If waist measure is less than 25 you cannot close back 
and must deduct it from drafting. Mark out Back and Side Body as usual, 
make a dot on Waist Line of Side Body inside of Side Line the amount you 
wish to deduct and move bottom of machine toward you and draw new line 
across dot joining regular Side Line at Arm's Eye. (See Fig. 11) Now set 

front of machine and draft out Under Arm, then move Slide 14 to the right adding to front 

same amount you deduct from back. 

ALWAYS HAVE A SHARP PENCIL. 

In marking around the Bars and Wires of machine, it is important that the lines should 
be made as close to the parts as it is possible to get them, when holding pencil straight up. 
Some of the Wires, especially the Darts, are raised slightly above drafting and unless you 
keep pencil sharpened, and wood trimmed back at least one inch from point the lines will be 
out of place. To illustrate with darts; if pencil is sharpened as above and held perpendicular 
lines will be made correctly, but if pencil is blunt and full size of wood comes against the 
wires, line will be made about ]/% inch inside of where it should be, this on four sides of darts 
makes quite a difference in their size. Keep pencil, crayon, chalk, or what ever you use, as 
advised above. ' 




The Bdddington Improved Dkess Cutting Machine. 



13 



FRONT WITH TWO UNDER ARM PIECES. 

1. — Back. — Set back of machine as usual, except Slide ti -which is 
set at the medium mark, and Slide 7 is set at centre of Arm's Eye Bar. 
2.— Draft out Centre Back as usual. 
3. — Draft Side Body as usual.- 

4. — Make dot on Waist line of Side Body, one inch inside of reg-ular 
Side line, and draw new Side line across this dot striking regular Side line 
at Ann's Eve. (See dotted line in Fig. 11.) 

1. — Front. — Set front as usual, except Slides 13 and 14, (Under Arm 
Wire) set these slides at 50 and draft out the front as usual. 

2 — Draft the Under Arm as usual, and make dot N one inch outside 
line at waist. 

3. — Draw dotted line 21 from dot X, striking regular line as shown 
in diagram, Fig. 12. 

4. — Dotted line 21 and line 1-1 is the width of Under Arm Piece, 
make dots O and P centrally between these lines. 

o. — Draw line 22 from dot O across dot 1* using Under Arm Bar. 

H. — Turn machine over placing Under Arm Bar on line 22 and draw line 23 from dot P. 
Note. — Double Under Arm Gore is for large forms, always draft it on paper and with 
tracing wheel, trace first piece by tracing Waist Eine from 14: to dot P, then up line 22 to 
dot (>, then Arm's Eye to line 14:, and down 14 to bottom of line. Trace down line 22 from dot 
P, remove drafting and cut out as'usual, then trace second piece by tracing Waist Line from dot 
P to dot N, up dotted line 21 to dot O down line 22 to dot P, down line 23 from dot P, cut 
out as before by allowing one-half inch seam, except at Arm's Eye. The bias front can be 
used with this under arm if desired. The extra cloth added below waist by lines 22 and 23 
may make skirt larger than is needed in some cases, this can be remedied by sloping the four 
skirt lines in at bottom. (See dotted lines, Fig. 12.) 




HANDLE FRONT OF MACHINE BY THE BUST BAR. 

In handling front of machine, care should be taken to not lift or hold it by the bar that 
holds the top of darts. This bar (Dart Bar) has no support at its outer end and if machine 
is handled by this Bar, Slide t> is liable to become loose. This Bar is to guide the top of darts 
and is not to be vised as a handle. The proper Bar to use in handling Machine is the Bust Bar. 
If this Bar is used. Slides will not become loose. 



HOW TO REGULATE SLIDES. 

The Machine when leaving our factory is perfect, and each Slide working as it should. It is 
best to leave it that way as long as it does not slip while drafting. But by constant use it may 
be necessary to strengthen the springs. This can be easily done if you are careful, by taking 
them out and bending them slightly in the sa.ra.ep/ace and in the same direction you find them. 
Take out loose Slide and bend it a little at first; put it back and try it; if not enough, take out 
and bend it more. In this, way you will soon know just what to do. 



TO TIGHTEN THE BACK SPRINGS. 

Slides 2, 3 and £> take out slides and raise the Brass spring a trifle. Slides 1 and 4; by 
taking out Slide and twisting down lower right hand corner. Slide <>; by taking off and 
pushing up under ed,L, r e, at end next to Side Bar. Slide 7; by taking out at top and beading. 



TO TIGHTEN THE FRONT SPRINGS. 

Slides 1 and X; by raising springs. Slide 2; by taking out slide and pushing down edge 
of Neck Bar. at upper right hand corner. Slides 3, 4, (5 and 7; by taking out and twist- 
ing down the lower right hand corner. Slides 5, J), 10, 11,12 and 13; by taking out and 
curving the ends up same direction you find them. Slide 14; by taking off and pushing in the 
edge at under side of slide. Slide 1,5 must not be changed in any way as the Bust and Waist 
Slides must move very easily. (See Note on Slide i), Page 10.) 



14 



Instructions for Using 



WRAPS, CAPES AND CIRCULARS. 

Fig. 13. 

With our machine any style of cape or cir- 
cular can be produced by placing' the machine 
in different positions. With a little experiment- 
ing- you can learn how to chang-e' the different 
parts to get any result you may desire. Take 
S/(^i der jj ec k an(i Shoulder measure as usual, and get 
the length required bj' measuring down from 
back of neck. The dotted lines show position 
of machine. 

CIRCULAR RIPPLE CAPE. 

1.— Set Slide 2 and 3 (Neck Bar) to Neck 
measure and place front of machine on paper 
as for basque. 

2. — Turn back of machine over, placing 
outside edge of Back Bar in a direct line with 
outside edge of Front Bar, and with % inch 
space between Back Neck Plate and Front Neck 
Bar. 

3. — Draw line outside of Front Bar as 
usual and along outside of Neck Wire to 
lower side of Neck Bar, stopping- line at 
lower side of Neck Bar, and making dot A at 
upper end of line. 

4r. — Draw line outside edge of Back Bar, 
and along neck plate as usual. 

5. — Remove Back and Fronbof Machine and 
finish the Neck line from dot A to end of Back Neck line, curving line as shown in dotted 
double line C in diagram. 

(>. — Make dot B the length of cape from Back Neck line. Stick a pin in tape at dot A 
and with pencil at a point that will strike dot B, swing the circle as shown. High collar can 
be used and any mode of decoration desired. In cutting, place long straight line lengthwise 
of goods. 




SHOULDER CAPE. 

l.--To make cape with shoulder seam. Set Front of Machine to Neck and Shoulder meas- 
ure and set Slide 4 (Arm's Eye) at 12 and Slide 15 (Bust Bar) at 36 and place Front of 
Machine on paper as for basque. 

2. — Set Back of Machine to Shoulder measure and set Bust Slide at 36. Turn Back of Ma- 
chine over, placing the lower end of Back and Front Shoulder Bars together, and with Side 
Bar of Back, resting on upper end of Front Arm's Eye Plate, draw the lines along Front Bar, 
Neck Wire down Front Shoulder, up Back Shoulder, Neck Plate, and Back Bar. Cut out Neck 
as usual and allow seam at Shoulder line. If more cloth is wanted, move Back of Machine up 
keeping ends of Shoulder Bars together. (See small diagram above.) 



DON'T FORGET: 



to take the measures correctly. 

the Arm's Eye is never larger than Neck and usually smaller, 
^to set all the Slides. 
Don't Forget to draft out the Under Arm before using Dart attachment. 
Don't Forget to mark inside the two wires below Waist Bar of Back. 

Don't Forget in drafting Back to place upper end of Back Bar, and tower end of Bark Skirt 
Plate the same distance from edge of goods or paper. 
Don't Forget to keep wood of pencil cut well back. 
Don't Forget to handle Front of Machine by the Bust Bar. 
Don't Forget to have a Tracing Wheel. You cannot get along without it. 
Don't Forget to put the Star on the First wire of Front darts. 

Don't Forget that you are to set one wire only with Dart Rule and that wire is Slide i). 
Don't Forget we want you to sell the Machine. 

Don't Forget that many dressmakers sell hundreds of machines without leaving the shop. 
Don't Forget to send for a Price-List, also to send us a testimonial. 



The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



15 



fin 



r? 




Gore 



FIVE-GORED SKIRT. 

Use Back of Machine to draw Line 1 in each gore and also to draw 
long- skirt lines. Move Waist Bar down to lower end of Back Bar, to 
g-et full length of Back Bar as a straight edge. 

1. — Place Back Bar of Machine one inch from front edge of paper, 
and about 45 inches from bottom and draw line 1 length of paper. 

2. — Place Front edge of Dart Rule straight on Line 1 and draw 
Line 2 along upper edge of rule, square across paper. 

3. — Without moving Rule, make dot A on Line 2, two and one- 
fourth inches less than one-fourth of Waist Measure from junctions of 
Line 1 and U. 

4. — Make dot B on line 1 one-half inch below junctions of line 1 
and 2 and make dot C seven inches below lines 1 and 2. 

5. — Move Rule down and draw Line 3 from dot C square across 
the paper. 

6. — Make dot D on Line 3, one-fourth of Waist Measure from dot C 
and make dot E on Line 1 six inches bolow dot C. 

7. — Move Rule down and draw Line i from dot E square across 
paper. 

8. — Make dot F on Line 4, one inch more than one-fourth of Waist 
Measure from dot E. 

9. — Place A corner of Rule at dot A, and draw curved Line 5 to dot 
B. 

lO. — Place A corner at dot A and draw curved Line Ci to dot D. 
11.— With Back Bar of Machine draw straight Line 7, from dot D 
across dot F full length of skirt. 

12. — With tape line make dot G on Line 1, the skirt measure below 
dot B and make dot H the skirt measure from dot A and make dot I 
centrally between dots G and H, the skirt measure from centre of line 
5 as per dotted lines, and draw straight line from G to I and from I to 
H. 



ABOUT TERRITORY. 

Several years ago when putting our first machine on the market, we offered exclusive con- 
trol of territory, and some of the parties taking territory at that time, still hold it, and have 
made the business their regular occupation all these years. Later, when the popularity of the 
machine became so great, ladies were inquiring where it could be found, and were looking for 
some one to teach them. People in general began to call for exclusive territory, but they had 
waited too long, the territory had been taken by others, or so many were selling on it we could 
not keep track of them; we were finally compelled to refuse giving exclusive control, and let 
all sell where ever they wished. This is all changed with our New Improved Machine, we' can 
give exclusive territor)' and protect the Agent, as it is new, and we know where ever}' Agent 
is, but it will soon be as the other, for the "Improved" with its wonderful convenience, ease 
of handling, quick adjustment, Dart Attachment, great simplicity, and other advantages 
over all other methods, is bound to sell even better than the other, and as there is no time re- 
quired to speak of. in teaching. It is a great chance for Agents. The time required 
by other methods in teaching, can be used in canvassing. If you want exclusive control of 
an}' State, Count)-, City or Town, write for terms at once. If you cannot travel, open a Dress 
Making School in your own town; in many cases this pays well. 



No Lady can afford to be without our new Measure Book. It preserves each measure, 
name and particulars, in a neat and compact form. It saves time, prevents errors, and will 
pay for itself many times. It contains 200 measures, neatly bound in cloth and board, with 
title in gold on cover. Price, post-paid, SO cents. One and two cent stamps taken in pay- 
ment for book. 



16 



Instructions for Using 



SIDE GORE. 

1. — Draw lines 1 and 2 same as Front 
Gore. 

2.— Make dot A on Line 2, one-half 
inch more than one-fourth of Waist Meas- 
ure, from junctions of Line 1 and 2. 

•5. — Make dot 15 on Line 2, centrally 
between dot A and Lines 1 and 2. 

•4. — Make dot C two inches straight 
down from dot B. 

5. — Make dot D on Line 1, two and 
one-half inches below junction of Lines 1 
and 2. 

6. — Place A corner of Rule at dot A, 
and draw curved Line 3 to dot C, then 
place A corner at dot C and draw curved 
Line 4 to dot 1). 

7. — Make dot JE on Line 1 one-fourth 
of Waist Measure below junctions of line 
1 and 2. 

>$. — Draw Line i> square across paper 
and with Tape Line make dot F on Line 
5, one inch more than one-half of Waist 
Measure from dot E. 

9. — Make dot H on Line 1, seven 
inches below dot 1). 

10. — Make dot Ci on Line 4-, one-fourth 
inch from dot D and draw straight line 
from dot Ci to dot H. 

1 1 . — With Back Bar, draw straight line 
7 from dot A across dot F full length of skirt. 

12. — With tape measure, make dot I one Line 1, the skirt measure, from dot D and make 
dot J on Line 7, the skirt measure from dot A, and dot K centrally between dots 1 and»J the 
skirt measure from dot C. Then make dots Li and M centrally between these dots, tneasure- 
ing down from Lines Ji and 4- as per dotted lines. Draw sraight lines from each of these dots. 




FACING AND DETAILS IN FINISH. 

In facing a basque at its lower edge, also at bottom of sleeve, facing should be a correct bias,, 
held very smooth, and in turning up after having joined the facing to the garment, great 
care should be taken, to baste it flat near its lower edge, and if the facing be more than two 
inches in width, it should be basted again near the upper edge, before attempting to hem it 
down. 

On Cuffs, Collars, or any decoration for waists or sleeves, the outer portion or covering, 
should be cut at least three eights of an inch larger all around than the crinoline, and this 
margin of cloth should be caught down lightly to the crinoline, and the lining or f icing should 
be basted on. and its edges blind-stitched nicely to the edges of the outer portion or covering. 
A collar or cuff should never be sewed around its outer edges by Machine and turned, as so 
many dress makers do, as it destroys all beauty of outline, which goes so far to distinguish, 
to a practiced eye, between shop-make and first-class finish of a dress. And these things 
which some work women are so likely to esteem of not much importance, are the things which 
well dressed women always esteem as of great importance, as they are of the greatest value to 
them, in aiding them to discern between those who are skilled in the trade and those who are 
not. And the reason skilled workmen always have, and always will, command good prices for 
labor, is simply because they pay attention to these details in finish. Many a woman, could, 
if she chose, work side by side with the best Ladies' Tailors, if she would only understand 
that she must use more time and pay more attention to the details of Dress Making. It is one 
thing to make a dress, and quite another thing to make and finish a dress, which shallshow the 
skill of the artiste, not only in fit and drapery, but in finish and general effect, in all the outlines. 



The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



17 



BACK GORE- 

1. — Draw lines 1 and 'J as before. 

2. — Make dot A on line 2, two inches more 
than one-fourth of. waist measure from junction 
of 1 and 2. 

3. — Make dot B on line 2 centrally between 
dot A and junctions of lines 1 and 2, and make 
dot C two and one-fourth inches below dot B. 

4. — Make dot D online 1 three inches below 
junction of lines 1 and 2. 

5. — Place A corner of Rule at dot A and 
draw curved line 3 to dot C and with A corner 
of Rule at dot A, draw curved line 4 to dot I). 

6. — Make dot E on line 1, one-fourth of 
waist measure below junctions of lines 1 and 
2 and draw line o square across paper. 

7. — With tape measure, make dot F on line 
o, one-fourth inch more than one-half of waist 
measure from dot E. 

8. — Make notches on lines 3 and 4, V 2 inch 
each side of dot C and notch 1 inch from dot D. 

1).— With Back Bar, draw line (> from dot 
A, straight across dot F full length of skirt. 

lO. — With tape, make dot I on line 1, the 
skirt measure from dot I) and make dot J the 
skirt measure from dot A and dot K centrally 
between I and J, the Skirt Measure from dot 
C and make dot M between these dots, measur- 
ing down from lines 3 and 4, the Skirt Measure 
as per dotted lines. 
-Draw straight lines from all of these dots at bottom of each Gore, and curve lines 
slightly between each dot at the centre, so as to make a true circle as shown in dotted lines of 
each diagram. With 24 Waist and 40 Length of Skirt, the drafting at bottom of Front Gore 
would be about 11 inches from dot G, straight across to dot H and Side Gore 40 inches straight 
across from dot I to dot J, and Back Gore 34 inches from dot I straight across to dot .7. 




CUTTING. 

In cutting Front Gore, line 1 is placed on lengthwise fold of goods. Side Gore, line 1 
from dot II to bottom is straight with lengthwise thread of goods. Back Gore, line 1 is straight 
with lengthwise thread of goods. In seaming up. lines 6 and 7 in Front Gore, join lines H 
and 1 of Back Gore and line 7 of Side Gore, join line 1 of Back Gore; leave placket opening at 
Centre Back seam. If pleats are desired, make two pleats at top of Back Gore turning to- 
wards the placket, for first pleat, bring the notch nearest to line 7 over to edge of placket, for 
second pleat, place the two notches between dots C and D together. If Gathers are desired, 
gather Back Gore. Material for above skirt of medium size, would require about 6 yards of 
30 or 36 inch goods, or 5 to S% yards of 44 to 50 inch goods. 

MAKING SKIRTS. 



y m uu ?>u (Liici sc*hil^ uu liic smi L] uinca»s> uic jjicLamiun ia laivcii uciuicuauu. j-luu. iiulii i ng 

is more unsightly or disagreeable in the outlines of a dress, than a skirt that curls at bottom. 
A facing should never be stitched on at its upper edge, with machine, but always smoothly 
basted down, and overstitched at top edge, to the dress lining. The best manner of sewing 
on braid, is, after basting your facing nicely and overstitching it at top to the skirt in a neat 
and workmanship manner, the braid should be laid flat on the right side of the dress, with its 
lower edge about % inch from lower edge of skirt and basted smoothly down near its lower 
edge, should be stitched as near as possible to this edge and turned over on the facing and 
hemmed securely to position, with its lower edge thus turned, barely showing like a small 
cord below the dress. All seams should be pressed in woolen fabrics. Silk fabrics should 
never be pressed with a hot iron, as it takes the fine gloss away, and renders the silk dull and 
soft. All seams in waist and sleeves should be pressed open flat. 



18 



Instructions for Using 



PRINCESS TEA GOWNS AND WRAPPERS, 

Fig. 17. 

To cut Princess Tea Gowns and Wrappers, Machine 
is set exactly same as for ordinary basque. The 
only difference being in placing- Centre Back and 
Side Body, Front and Under Arm farther apart to 
allow for the skirt lines. 

1. — Front. — Set machine and draft Front same 
as for ordinary basque. 

2. — After drafting- Front extend Bust Line 
straight from you 12 or IS inches. 

3. — Measure out on Bust Line and make dot P 7 
inches from junctions of Front and Under Arm lines. 
4. — Place machine with upper edge of Bust Bar 
even, and exactly straight on Bust Line, with top of 
Under Arm Wire, directly under dot P and draft out 
the Under Arm as usual. 

5. — Extend Skirt Line Q down as follows: Place 
A corner of Dart Rule at Waist, and extend curved 
line down length of Rule. 

6. — Without moving Rule, make dot Q at lower 
corner of Rule. 

7. — Draw straight line from dot Q down length 
of Skirt. 

8. — Measure out 5 inches from bottom of line and make dot K, and draw straight line from 
dot Q to dot K discarding the inside line. 

9. — Make dot G one-fourth inch outside Front Line and 6 inches below Waist Line, and 
draw straight line to dot G extending line straight down from dot G length of Skirt. 

It). — Now finish Skirt Lines of Under Arm as follows, Turn Dart Rule over, with A corner 
at waist, (14) and draw curved line down length of Rule. 

11. — Without moving Rule make dot S, at lower corner of Rule, and draw straight line from 
dot S, the length of Skirt. 

12. — From bottom of line S, measure out 17 inches and made dot T. 

13. — Draw line from dot H to dot T (curving out slightly in centre) the length of Skirt. 

14. — Dot H can be made according to Hip Measure. See Front Instructions. 




PRINCESS TEA GOWNS AND WRAPPERS. 
Back. 

1. --If you are drafting on the goods, the Back Bar of the machine 
should be placed just as far from the front edge of the goods, as you 
wish the size of Centre Back plaits, in the skirt. Thus: If you wish' 
the plaits in back of skirt at centre, ten inches on each side, lay the 
Back Bar of machine ten inches from front edge of goods. If the 
goods be double fold, place fold of goods toward you, and if single fold, 
we prefer to place the Back Bar of the machine near the front edge of 
goods, and join in a breadth of goods below Waist Line, in order to 
avoid a centre seam in skirt. 

2. — After drafting Centre Back as usual, carry Skirt Lines down 
lengh of skirt. 

3. — Carry Waist Line straight out across paper or goods, and place 
machine as far from Centre Back, as you desire pleats at side, or a bet- 
ter method is to place back of machine near selvage of goods, taking 
care that Waist Bar is on Waist Line. Now lay A, corner of Dart Rule 
on Side Body Plate of machine, A corner at waist, and edge of Rule even 
with edge of Side Body Plate, and move back of machine so the lower end 
of Rule will be about one inch from selvage. Then draft out the Side 
Body, earring line along Side Body Plate and Dart Rule, to lower corner 
of Rule. This method will bring a straight selvage down front edge 
of Back Skirt, thus, producing the nicest hanging skirt for this class of garment, as the full- 
ness in back is prevented from falling forward. For Train Skirts, simply extend the SkirtLines 
down the required length, sloping down gradually from Side Line, tocentre of back at bottom. 




The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



19 



TO CUT A POLONAISE. 

Polonaise is cut essentialy the same as 
Princess, the only difference being- the Front 
and Under Arm, Back and Side Body are in one 
piece, with a Dart of two inches at waist. 

Front. — After drafting- Front, extend Bust 
and Waist lines out straight, and move machine 
over making the space two inches at Waist, be- 
tween the Front and Under Arm, and draft out 
Under Arm, bringing the lines together five 
inches below Waist. Be careful to keep Bust 
Bar straig-ht and even with Bust Line when 
drafting Under Arm, as this will bring the 
Waist Lines evenly together when dart is sew- 
ed up. 

Back. — After drafting Centre Back, move 
machine over, making the space two inches at 
Waist, between the Centre Back and Side Body 
and with Waist Bar on Waist Line, draft out 
Side Body, and bring lines together five inches 
below Waist. Carry down Skirt making- full- 
ness at bottom to suit wearer. The width at 
bottom of Front, should be about 30 inches, and remaining fullness in Back Skirt at bottom- 
To get Side Lines at Hip Curve, (See instructions for Princess) plaits should be arranged at 
centre of back, as directed in Princess. 





CLOAK SHAPE. 



Cloak Shape is a curved line extending from curve at hip to a point on Side Line four 
inches above waist, adding }£ to l / 2 inch at waist. (See dotted lines Figs. 17, 18, ID, 20, 21 

and 22.) 



INK STAMPED FIGURES. 

If Ink is put in the Stamped Figures they will show more plainl}'. 



TO MEASURE BOTH SIDES. 

For forms who differ in dimensions, or who are not alike at both sides, 'measures may be 
taken for each side and the difference divided (if not too marked,) and the waist drafted to the 
measure thus divided. Thus: say one under arm be 8, the other %)A, , use 8}4 for the whole, etc. 
This, we consider better than building up a form to increased deformity, by keeping up the 
inclination to differ, by fitting a dress down to the longest side, and up to the shorter, and this 
is especially hurtful in children, who have not yet attained their growth. Each time a dress 
is fitted thus, the inclination to increase the difference in form is increased, and thus mischief 
is the result. Better straighten the form with artificial help, or, if this cannot be done, pad- 
ding should be used to build both sides alike. If padding is to be used, it should be used be- 
tween goods and lining, if possible, and tacked firmly to lining. 



SLEEVE CUTTING MACHINE FOR ONE DOLLAR. 



Our regular price for Sleeve Cutting Machine is $2.00, but we have concluded to sell it with 
the Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine, under certain conditions, for .$1.00. 
When ordering the Dress Cutting Machine and Sleeve Cutting- Machine together, we will 
make the Sleeve Machine $1.00, making $6.00 for both machines. If ordering the Sleeve 
Machine separate you must send the coupon at bottom of last page with $1.00, otherwise it 
will be the reg-ular price of $2.00. 



20 



Instructions for Using 



DRAFTING FOR CHILDREN. 

When measures are less than found on Machine. 
Fi«-. 21. 

1.— Front.— Set Shoulder Slide at 4. 

2. — Set Neck Slide at Neck Measure. 

15. — If Arm's Eye be less than t>, move Slide 4 (Bust 
Bar) up one-half inch for each measure less than i). 
Thus, if Arm's Eye measure be H, move Bust Bar up 
one-half inch above i). 

■1. — If Under Arm measure be /ess than 6, set Under 
Arm at (y and measure down Under Arm Bar the requir- 
ed measure, (If it be <> or less) and take off at lower end 
of Bar the required amount, taking care to keep Waist 
Line straight with Bust Line. (See dotted lines above 
Waist Line in diagram.) 

5. — Set Slide 7 (Waist Bar) so it will be the same 
distance below Bust Bar at Front, thus, bringing Waist 
Bar straight with Bust Bar. 

(>. — If Bust Measure be less than 2tt, set Bust at 26. 

7. — Draft entirely around outside of machine, thus 
making the Front and Under Arm in one piece. 

8. — Remove machine, if Bust Measure be less than 
26. Place D corner of Dart Rule at junctions of Bust 
and Side Lines, and make dot U at Bust Measure found 
on Children's Bust Scale, on Dart Rule. 

$). — In like manner, place I) corner, at junctions of 
Waist and Side lines and make dot V, at Children's 
Bust Measure as before. 

lO. — Draw new line across these dots, continuing the 
line below waist as per dotted lines in Fig. 21. 

Fig. 22. 



CHILDREN'S DRAFTING 




1.— Back. — Push in the Shoulder Slide as far as it will go. 

2. — Set Bust and Waist to smallest measures on Bars. 

3. — Set Back to Back Measure. 

4. — Draft entirely around outside of machine and along upper 
edge of Bust Bar. 

5. --Remove machine, and with D corner of Dart Rule at junctions 
of Side and Bust lines, make dot VV according to Bust Measure. 

6. — In same manner, place D corner at Waist and Side lines, and 
make dot X on Waist Line, according to Bust Measure. 

7. — Measure Shoulder Line and if too long take off at lower end of 
line, the required amount. 

8. — Draw new lines crossing these dots and parallel with first lines 
drawn bringing drafting down to required size. Allow the line run- 
ning from Waist to Arm's Eye to extend about one-half inch above 
first line, thus making Arm's Eye one-half inch smaller. 

{). — Extend Skirt Lines down length of Skirt Measure, sloping in 
lines slightly, to avoid fullness at bottom of skirt. 



Xote. — If open back is desired, add one-fourth inch at Centre Back 
drafting, and deduct the same amount from Centre Front line of draft- 
ing. In cutting open backs, lay Front line on fold of goods, to avoid 
seam in front. As child's waist is not sharply defined, it is best to use 
cloak shape, or curved line at Side Waist, both in Front and Back draft- 
ing. Make these curved lines after drafting is completed. Make curv- 
ed line in Back drafting first, then measure Waist Line of Back, and 
make curved line in Front drafting, adding in front the amount requir- 
ed to make waist right size. Side Body Wires in Back, and Darts in 
Front, are rarely used, if dart is required use only one dart. 




Instructions for Using 21 



SPECIAL RULES. 

SIDE BODY WIRE OR SLIDES 6 AND 7. 

Note 1. — The Back of Machine, being- in one piece is a great advantage, as it enables 
operator to change the size of Back and Side Body instantly, by simply moving Slides 6and7. 
The mark on Waist Bar is for medium measure, say waist 24 to 26, if waist is larger than 26, 
move Slide 6 to the right, if less than 24, move to the left. Slide 7 can be set anywhere from 
Centre of Arm's Eye down. Moving Slides 6 and 7 does not change the fit of dress, but 
changes the seams, enabling you to locate them where you choose. These Slides must not be 
moved after you commence to draft. With large Waist Measure, Slide 6 may come so far to 
the right, the edge of Slide will project beyond end of Waist Bar, if so, be sure waist is not 
moved from measure, as Waist Slide must be set to Waist Bar and not to edge of Slide 6. 



THE UNDER ARM OR SLIDE 13 AND 14. 

Note 2. — As the Front of Machine is in one piece, you can cut the Under Arm any 
width you choose, by simply moving Slides 13 and 14 to the right or left. When Bust 
Measure is less than 36, it is best to set Slides 13 and 14 at 36. When Bust is over 36 set to 
Bust Measure. Moving these Slides does not change the fit, but locates the seams as desired, 
they must be placed to suit before commencing to draft. If Bust Measure is not found on Bar, 
set to the measure that comes nearest to it. 



HEIGHT OF DART OR SLIDE 6. 

Note 3.— If you are in doubt about taking a correct Height of Dart Measure, set upper 
edge of Slide 6 two inches, below lower edge of Slide 4, thus showing two inches of Red 
Measure Strip between Height of Dart Slide and Bust Slide, this is a medium Height of Dart, 
and will be correct in most cases. 



" SHOULDER. 

In both Back and Front Shoulder, the line at lower end can be raised one-eigth inch for 
each two measures above 40 Bust, for instance, raise Y% for 42 J£ for 46, etc. Line must 
not be raised at Neck, but at lower end of Shoulder, joining regular Shoulder Line at Neck. 



THE DARTS. 

We have constructed our Darts on a plan that gives you entire control over them, enabling 
you to cut any style of darts you wish. If you wish them to slope back, simply move Slides 
lO and 11 (top of Darts) to the right. If you wish Second Dart larger than first, move Slide 
12 to the left. If you wish Darts larger than Dart Rule gives, use Dart Attachment. 



TO ENLARGE THE DARTS. 

To make Darts larger than Machine gives, when set to regular measure, set Machine, 
Darts and all same as usual, and draft out the Under Arm, then catch the Dart Attachment to 
Slide i>, and move Slide 14 to the right, making Darts anj size you desire. 



THE DART ATTACHMENT. 

The Dart Attachment is a new and novel arrangement of our own invention and used ex- 
clusively on our Improved Machine. By its use, you change the Machine from an ordinary 
Basque to a French Bias Basque instantly. You can also make the darts larger or smaller 
as you choose, without changing the waist size. In fact, it gives complete control of the darts 
enabling the operator to use the small or large darts, as desired. 



HOW DART ATTACHMENT IS USED. 

It is used by turning it down and catching it around the rivet under dart wire at Slide i) 
and then with hand on Slide 14, (bottom of Under Arm Wire), move Slide to the right and 
the Dart Wire moves also. If a point strikes the rivet when attachment is applied, move 
Slide 9 a trifle, so the notch will catch the rivet. Attachment is only used on Slide i) and when 
not in use is kept between Under Arm Wires. If it should become loose and fall from its po- 
sition between the wires, take a short piece of thread and wind it around the rivet at Slide 14, 
between the attachment and Under Arm Wire. 



22 Instructions for Using 



DRAFT UNDER ARM FIRST. 

Never use Dart Attachment until you have set Machine, Darts and all, and have drafted out 
the Under Arm. 

TO MAKE DARTS FARTHER FROM FRONT, ETC. 

The Machine makes the first dart \%. inches from the Front, and the distance between first 
and second dart, % of an inch. If you wish to change this distance, draft out Front as usual, 
leaving out darts. Now move machine to make distance more or less as you wish and mark 
out first dart. Then move Machine again, making any space you choose between darts and 
mark out second dart. 

WHEN BUST MEASURE IS LARGER THAN 50. 

To cut for larger Bust Measure than 50, set Machine as usual, except the Bust Slides, 
which are set at SO. Then mark out the Under Arm. After drafting the Under Arm, add to 
the Front the required amount, by moving Under Arm Wire to the Right, two measures for 
each measure above SO. Remember these measures at Slide 13 and 14: (top and bottom of 
Under Arm Wire) are % inch apart, two of them makes % inch, which equals 1 inch on finish- 
ed garment as material is always cut double. If Bust is 51, move Slide two measures, if 52, 
move four measures, if S3, six measures, etc. 



BASTING. 

Basting, is one of the foundations of good dress making, its importance cannot be over 
estimated. Do not be afraid of taking too many stitches. 

In basting goods on lining in waist or sleeves, a thread should always run along each 
tracin"- on seams and across waist line, taking short stitches on right side, and stitches about 
one inch or less on lining. This will assist materially in joining the seams in basting the 
o-arment together. In basting any curved seam where a rounded edge is to fit into a curved 
or hollow ed«-e, the rounded edge should be held loose, as in joining Side Body to Centre Back 
outer edo-e of sleeve, sewing in sleeve, etc. In basting a bias edge on a straight edge, care 
should be taken not to stretch the bias side. In joining the different parts, always begin to 
baste at the waist lines. In basting shoulder seams, you will find back Shoulder one-half inch 
longer than front shoulder. Commence to baste at neck, stretching the front; bring it out 
even with back at arm's eye. 

PRESSING, SEWING ON BUTTONS, &c. 

Tailors believe in pressing, if you follow their example, you will take a press cloth, dam- 
pen it, (If dress cloth is woolen) lay it along each seam in turn and with a hot'vcow, press until 
the cloth is dry, afterwards press the bare seams, running the iron under the edges to prevent 
outlines showing on outside. In sewing on buttons or hooks and eyes, be sure to get them 
exactly opposite, or dress will be crooked and whole waist out of balance. 

When basting on whalebone casings, they should be held loose. Whalebone casings should 
never be stitched on with machine, but cross stitched on with colored silk, or hemmed by hand. 



SEWING. 

The seams of basque must be stitched in absolutely straight lines, wavering, irregular 
machine work will ruin the otherwise perfect fit. 



SLOPING BASQUES AT BOTTOM. 

After getting the desired form of one side of bottom, pin securely together at waist line, 
and shape the remaining side by first. 

THE RIPPLE BASQUE. 

The ripple effect in basque below waist, can be produced by adding to each skirt line, of 
the centre back, side body, under arm and back line of front. Make dots four inches below 
waist and one inch outside of each skirt line, and draw new line from waist across these dots. 
You can add more or less by making the dots near or farther from line. 



The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Machine. 



23 



Fig. 23. 






Fig-. 25. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING THE 

BUDDINGTON DRESS 

CUTTING MACHINE. 

1. — Set Slide 1 at Arm's Eye Measure. 
2. — Set upper end of Slide 2 at Arm's Eye Measure. 
3.— Set upper end of Slide 3 at Shoulder to Elbow 
Measure. 
4. — Set Slide 4 at whole length of Sleeve Measure. 
5.— Set Slide 5 at Elbow Measure. 
6.— Set Slide 6 at Wrist Measure. 

Instructions are also on each Slide of Machine. 
Place Machine on cloth and mark around inside of 
wires and wrist bar (See Arrows) for upper portion of 
sleeve. Then move Machine and mark out under portion by 
following inside wires and wrist bar. (See Stars.) Cut 
out sleeve allowing }^ inch seam all around, notch at open 
space found at top and at elbow. See V in Fig. 24 and 25. 
Trace out lines and baste up. 

To baste sleeve, first baste inside seam by placing tracings at top 
and bottom exactly together and follow the inner line of tracing. In 
basting outside seam, commence at top of sleeve and baste downward to a point about % inch 
above elbow notch (Fig. 25.) Now commence at wrist and baste up to a point % inch bei^ow 
elbow notch, and gather the upper portion into this 1% inch space. 

In cutting sleeves for long, slender arms, where there is not much taper from shoulder to 
elbow and little or no difference between the arm's eye and elbow measure, or if the arm be 
unusually short from shoulder to elbow there should be l /z inch added at wrist to upper por- 
tion of line running from wrist to elbow (See dotted line B) and the same amount deducted 
from under portion at corresponding inside seam. 

If you wish the upper portion of sleeve wider at top, thus bringing the outside seam lower 
at back, l l / 2 inch can be added to upper portion at outer seam at top, and the same amount de- 
ducted from under portion at corresponding seam. See dotted lines at top of sleeve in Figs. 24 
and 25. 

To cut sleeve without outside seam from shoulder to elbow, mark out upper portion, then 
turn Machine over, placing wire of under portion on line from shoulder to elbow, and mark 
out under portion of sleeve. 

NOTE. — Diagram of Machine, Fig. 23, was taken when Machine was set at Arm's Eye 13; 
Shoulder to Elbow 14; around Elbow 12; whole length 22; Wrist 6. 



24 



The Buddington Improved Dress Cutting Magi LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



LEG O' MUTTON SLEEVE. 

Fig-. 26. Witji one seam, lining is < 

1.— Set Machine "jj" 005 813 156 8 

2. — Lay Machii ._ __ K a,,ci, ^wmcn 
should be at least thirty inches wide) four 
inches from edge, and Wrist Bar near the 
bottom. 

3. — Draft out the upper portion of 
sleeve from Wrist Bar to Elbow Bar as 
usual, and draw line below Elbow Bar 
from inside wire to outside wire. 

4. — Without moving- Machine, place 
pencil below Elbow Bar inside Front Wire 
at A, and with pencil as a pivot, swing- 
top of Machine to the left till it measures 
five inches from end of Elbow Line to end 
of Elbow Bar, then finish upper portion 
of sleeve as usual. 

5. — Turn Machine over, placing- Centre 
Wire straight with outside line, keeping 
wire on line four inches above wrist. 
Then mark out the under portion of sleeve 
to Elbow, and below Elbow Bar from 
first wire to the middle wire. 

6. — Place pencil below Elbow Bar in- 
side wire at B as before, and swing ma- 
chine on pencil to the right till it meas- 
ures }i inch between the end of line and 
Klbow Bar; then finish under portion of sleeve as usual. 

7. — With tape line, measure across drafting, from Arm's Eye to Arm's Eye at points 
shown by dotted lines from C to D, and make dot E at one-half of this measure. Dot E must 
be centrally and in a direct line between C and D. 

8. -Now stick a pin through tape for a pivot at dot E, and with tape and pencil in one 
hand at a distance that will strike the points C and D, swing the circle for top of 
sleeve from C to D. 

i). — With end of tape at P, stretch tape line straight across dot E and make notch G- on 
upper line. 

lO. — Make notch ]i inch above the junctions of lines at C, and notch one inch above junc- 
tions of lines at H. 

In cutting out, the outside lines only are used, all other lines are omitted. Eay drafting 
on cloth with line as shown in diagram, lengthwise of goods, and cut out, allowing *<£ inch 
seam, then baste inside seams. Gather the sleeve along its upper edge, between the notches 
from Gr to C, and from Gr to H. Slip sleeve over lining, place inside seam of sleeve at inside 
seam of lining and sew in as usual bringing notch Gr at top of lining. To make 
sleeve larger, turn Machine farther on pencil, or if you want it higher at top, make line 
as far above as you choose. Sleeve drafted as above at measure given in Book, will measure 
about 29 inches from C to D and 32 inches from wrist to top. 

Every one having the Dress Cutting Machine should also have the Sleeve Cutting Machine. 
It makes the outfit complete. With these machines you have a great advantage over your 
competitor who uses some of the old-fashioned and complicated systems. With our Sleeve 
Machine you can cut any kind of sleeve, large or small, with the instructions given above, 
a little ingenuity on your part, will enable you to change the lines to cut any kind of 
sleeve you desire, or that fashion may dictate. 




Sleeve iVIactiitie Coupon. 

Cut off this Coupon and send it to us with $1.00 and we will send you our Patent Sleeve 
Cutting Machine. 

Name Town 

Street No. State 



The Buddinjton D*e$ Gutting Machine 



100,000 IN USB. 



PATENTED 1883. 





Awarded mstiai. Diploma and First Prize at World's Columbian. Exposition, Gnjcago. 1893. 




AWARDED FIRST FRIZES AT 

Exposition, Minneapolis, Minn., 1882. 
State Fair, Sacramento, Cal., 1882. 
World's Fair, New Orleans, 1884-5. 
Exposition, Toronto, Can., 1886. 
Exposition, St. Joseph, Mo., 1886. 

American Institute Fair, New York, 1S89. 
State Fair, Grand Rapids, Mich., 1889. 
and many other places. 






We always keep a large stock of these machines on hand, and will supply them 
to our customers at the same price as heretofore. 



racE last sirr on ^wwiK^rmn, 



2 *i£^3=*e^!=t<3^)^=J^Ji£^ 

| AGENTS WANTED! 



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Either Ladies or Gentlemen. 



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THE BUDDINGTON SLEEVE CUTTING MACHINE. 

There is a magnificent field open to Agents, in handling a system that every lady needs; that saves these 
ladies many dollars, and is so cheap as to be within the reach of the poorest. 

With it any one can cut any style of garment from any fashion plate for the largest woman or the 
smallest child, and make perfect fit without changing seams or trying the garment on. 

PERSONS OUT OF EMPLOYMENT 

either ladies or gentlemen, with small capital, can engage at once in a paying business- We do not sell 
territory, but GIVE IT AWAY. 

Send a two-cent stamp for circular, and confidential Price-List to Agents. Knowing the agents does 
the largest share of the work, we believe they should have the largest share of the profits. Write at once. 

F. E. BUDDINGTON, Inventor and Patentee, 

2327 Indiana Avenue, 



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The above engraving illustrates the position of Dart Attachment, Under-Arm and Dart Wire when set 

for Bias Dart. 'ik 



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